When looking for vegan leather alternatives that we feel are truly sustainable and durable, we discovered that the innovation and ingenuity we had been looking for could be found locally.Â
The creator of this new material, Mónica Gonçalves, is a creative and hardworking woman, who turned adversity into innovation by realizing her vision for sustainability during lockdown. We spoke with her to learn more about this material, its history and her extraordinary views on sustainability.
Read along to meet her and the wonders of Alfarroba.Tex.
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How did you discover Alfarroba.Tex? Can you tell us a bit about how the project was born?
Alfarroba.Tex was born 13 years after starting my work as a researcher in the textile industry. During lockdown, and with a newborn at home, I had to roll up my sleeves and get busy. While on holiday, I came across some carob and it took me back to my childhood in my grandmother’s orange fields. where my father used to give me carob pods to smell.
What is the creation and production of Alfarroba.Tex like? How do you obtain the materials?
This process is based on the use of carob pods, keeping the color and smell intact, combined with cellulose fibers and bonded with materials sourced directly from trees.
Are carob and other materials sourced from waste?
One of the materials, the cellulose, comes from waste.
Do you need to use the whole of the carob or can it also be used for food?
No, you don’t need to use the whole carob plant, we can work with the waste from the food industry also.
What’s important is to have the carob pods and fibers, to keep the color and aroma intact.
What differentiates Alfarroba.Tex from other vegan leathers or leather alternatives?
It is a truly vegan and biodegradable material. It behaves similarly to human skin and should be treated as such. It has a unique aroma and it has several application possibilities, making it very versatile.
It completely embraces sustainability, as its production requires a low consumption of water and energy.
What are other advantages of Alfarroba.Tex?
It is natural, Portuguese, handmade. It is also biodegradable and no water is wasted in its production.
What are the main challenges in working with this material?
The challenge lies in the interpretation of the material’s elasticity and finding the right machines to sew it.
What motivates you?
My motivation is to contribute to the fashion revolution, where we should focus on working with materials that are kind to the planet – materials that have a lifecycle similar to those of living beings of vegetable origin.
To be able to look at nature and understand how to create materials that react similarly, that is what I wish for Alfarroba.Tex and that is what I wish for all of the materials I may create in the future.
What are your views on the subject of sustainability in Portugal and in the fashion industry?
Well, my views are straightforward. To me, being sustainable means respecting the raw materials, being mindful of water usage, wages and the product lifecycle. It isn’t just using natural or recycled materials. We should be aware of their life and production cycle, and whether we are actually contributing to a greener fashion industry.
In Portugal, the concept of sustainability is still treated as a trend rather than a motivation or vision by companies. We are far from being a green industry.
How do you envision the evolution of this project in the future?
I look at it optimistically. There is another version of the product already, called Alfarroba.Tex Plus, and I hope to continue creating new and improved versions of the product in the future.
How should we care for our Alfarroba Tex boots?
You shouldn’t expose them to UV light for long periods, they should be protected from humid environments. After storage, they should be cleaned with a damp cloth.
[It’s important to mention that, although humidity can impact the material over time, it’s designed to handle daily exposure to the elements, including UV light. When you’re not wearing the shoes or storing them, make sure they’re completely dry, and that the storage environment is also dry. Your Alfarroba boots should be stored away from direct sunlight to ensure optimal durability and longevity]
Our Alfarroba boots, are a higher ankle/calf lace-up model created with Alfarroba.Tex and lined with deadstock organic cotton, making it completely natural and vegan. It is available as part of the FW 24/25 collection starting 17 October.
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